Players who play traversing machine know traversing machine and we see everyday aerial photography machine is completely different: aerial photography machine is to shoot, so it is the pursuit of stability, safety and the ability to shoot; but traversing machine pursuit of only speed, reaction and flexibility.

Why DIY?

Nine out of ten racing drones are mainly self-assembled DIY. Although there are many manufacturers to develop and produce the whole machine can be handed to fly the racing drones, but most of the new pit and senior players are to choose DIY this road, to their own choice of spare parts to assemble a warplane with their own personality.

First of all, DIY traversing machines can provide greater freedom for flyers. As traversing planes mainly fly on the track, they often have to choose different drone settings for different tracks and environments: for example, a lighter drone with a shorter endurance is needed for lap races, but a drone with a higher endurance and greater weight capacity is needed for official 3-5 lap time trials. Therefore, only DIY traversers can provide the greatest flexibility.

Secondly, as the traversing machine is mainly driven manually, coupled with frequent high-speed flying and high-speed cornering, accidents are naturally more common, so the damage rate of the drone is also particularly high. If you use a DIY traversing machine as a traversing machine, not only is it easier to find repair parts, but the cost of parts is also relatively low.

How to choose the motor?

About the choice of motor, some professional gods have said this:

Motor size and performance parameters vary, and directly determine the power output of the aircraft, how to choose the right motor has become a major issue. As we all know, the brushless motor model of the crossing machine consists of two parts, one is the stator size, such as 2204 motor, stator diameter 22mm, 4mm high; the other part is the kV value, the meaning of each increase of 1 volt voltage motor to increase the speed, such as 2300kV motor speed will increase by 2300 rpm per 1V.

Understanding this for the motor thrust and efficiency of the problem will be better grasp. We all know that P = UI, the greater the P, the greater the power consumption. Please note that the P value here will not be 100% output for power, in the extreme case may even be less than 40%.

After doing a pull test under different parameters, you will find that the motor load is more likely to suddenly become larger in the case of close to the limit output, while the pull lift is smaller, in other words, the efficiency drops.

This is not a good phenomenon, imagine you encounter an emergency need to save the machine at full throttle, pulling force did not increase the current up how much, the result is the motor heat demagnetization, ESC heat or even burned. This is also a lot of novices to veterans after not timely replacement configuration, resulting in violent flight will ESC burned most of the reasons. There is also when the aircraft is in a high throttle state, if the aircraft hit something at this time resulting in motor blocking, the instantaneous current at this time will increase dramatically (conventional 2306 current blocking current up to 80-100A), it is possible to burn the ESC.

Therefore, while taking into account the tension, should pay attention to the current size and the slope of the tension curve. If one of these two is too large then the pairing should be considered inappropriate.

Don't make any assumptions or hearsay about different combinations, remember, the highest pulling power is not necessarily the best.

How to choose ESC?

ESC selection guidelines are generally: ESC can work 150% overload for about 30 seconds without too much damage, such as full throttle 45A, then you can also match MAD COMPONENTS 40A four in one ESC, because the average person will not be full throttle for a long time (of course, that is the average person ......), if more than 48A or recommended directly on MAD COMPONENTS 60A four in one, how violent you want to violence, the scale according to their own situation to grasp.

White users into the pit at the beginning or flower fly player general configuration MAD 40A fly tower is the best choice, why say so?

(1) all connected to the plug (receiver, map, camera, buzzer, LED) are equipped with a quick connection line flight control layer without welding a line, directly equipped with a plug line, save just started soldering bad white. Maintenance is convenient, want to replace what the camera, receiver and so on, directly plug and replace can be;

(2) flight control on-board filter

Some players may have used some poor quality flying tower will encounter this problem: why my picture transfer screen so many black lines? Where do the black lines come from? The main reason is that the power supply circuit of the map transmission is not clean, interfering with the map transmission. Why is the power supply circuit not clean? The main reason is that the circuit from the ESC is not clean or the BEC quality of the flight control is too poor; the flight control has an on-board filter to filter the circuit, making the output to the map transmission circuit more pure, just like a freshly washed clothes.

3）Flying tower with shock column, do not have to worry about how to do shock absorption, directly screwed on the screw can be happy to fly, suitable for flyers to start to start;

4）Flying control comes with OSD, you can enter the OSD interface through the remote control directly adjust the aircraft parameters, through the remote control to switch the power of the map, channel, (need to support this function) real-time display of current, voltage, flight time, so you can fly, do not worry about not knowing the battery voltage and lead to battery over-discharge;;

5) MAD COMPONENTS 40A 4 in 1 ESC perfectly supports 2204, 2205, 2206, 2207, 2306 motors (without violent flight).